Mars

Peloponnese, GR

__Mars__—a dream tufa crag! Rising above a narrow, protected natural terrace, the first 20 meters of the fiery limestone face is clad in long stalactites. Higher up, the tufas give way to more compact, pocketed, gently overhanging limestone of outstanding quality, with some scatterings of tufa blobs. Not surprisingly, Mars is one of the most popular crags in Leonidio. Its popularity plus the limited space on the terrace means Mars is quite busy during peak season. __Climbing__ On the left, 12 easier routes on a very solid grey vertical wall full of pockets (6a+ to 6c+). In the middle, steep and athletic endurance climbing in a tufa jungle, on 28 routes from 6a–8a with grade-defining cruxes. Lots of massive rest points, though, if you know where to look. Notably, this part of Mars offers some outstanding routes on crazy tufa curtains in the 6b–6c range, which is highly unusual for this type of rock. __Gear__ A single 80m rope + 20 QDs. __Conditions__ One of the best options for afternoon shade in the Leonidio area. Perfect for spring and autumn afternoons, and for very warm winter days. Despite the shade, summer may be too hot. Mars is a sheltered area, and mornings are quite hot with the sun roasting the cliff. The balcony and first pitches are protected from rainfall, though the extensions are not. __Shade (Exposure: E)__ After 12:30. __Kids__ No. There are fixed rope sections, exposed sections on the balcony, and tufas which can always break. ---------- __Sub-sectors__ If Mars is too crowded, try one of its satellites, Namaste (relatively vertical, sharp rock halfway along the path) or Venus (slightly overhanging wall with sharp pockets, crimps, and tufas). For more info see each sub-sector’s intro in the pages that follow. ---------- __Namaste__ is a small sector on a relatively vertical wall halfway along the path to Mars. While Mars is undoubtedly the star here, Namaste is a good alternative for days when the main crag is too crowded, which can be often. To the right of Namaste is another small, blocky sector called Hermes (on the app only). __Climbing__ On a vertical or slightly overhanging wall with sharp pockets and a few tufas. Almost all grades (6a–8b) are represented in the 14 routes here. __Gear__ A single 80m rope + 20 QDs. __Conditions__ Good for climbing on cloudy days in spring and fall, or on sunny days in winter. __Shade (Exposure: S)__ No shade, sun all day. --------- __Venus__ is another small satellite of Mars which rises above two small belay ledges. The rock is the same deep red as at Mars, but with less tufas or other interesting features. __Climbing__ On a slightly overhanging wall with sharp pockets, crimps, and tufas. There are nine long routes here, with lengths from 35–40m and grades from 5c+ to 7c+. __Gear__ A single 80m rope + 22 QDs. __Conditions__ Good for winter climbing or for afternoon climbing in spring and autumn. __Shade (Exposure: E)__ After 12:30. __Kids__ No.
CRAG STATISTICS
65
Routes
55984
meters climbed
2150
Zlags
7a
average grade

J F M A M J J A S O N D

Family friendly
Very safe
Rain safe
Parking
Vertical
Overhanging
Exposition
70 m.
20 min.

GALLERY