Noufaro

Kalymnos, GR

In recent years, sector _Noúfaro_ has expanded substantially upwards to include quite a few sub-sectors with an enviable variety of climbing styles. Sub-sector _Eagle Wall_, high up, features some demanding multi-pitches. _Magic Wall_ is home to long, thin, and fingery routes. _Almodóvar_ is a hard sport crag with relatively short routes. But _Noúfaro Main_, the cliff closest to the road, is the busiest—the interesting easy routes on the left slab, diverse climbing styles and grades of the main cliff, and quick approach are a winning proposition for many. A wide-ranging sector with good grey slabs and walls, some technical multi-pitches, and a small, very hard sub-sector. __Busy__ 2/3 __Climbing__ There is almost everything, from adventurous multi-pitches to very hard sport routes to easier, but still good, walls and slabs. __Conditions__ Warm and protected from the north wind, but not protected from the rain. Good for cool or cloudy days. __Shade (Exposure: NW)__ Until 14:00. __Kids__ Only at _Noúfaro Mai_ and _Almodóvar_. __Eagle Wall__ features two long multi-pitches on mostly good grey rock. Though they are fully bolted, their character is decidedly adventurous. _Return_ (walking time: 20 minutes): At the top, follow cairns along the ridge making a big U-turn until you come above Magic Wall. Then, continue down an easier path to the base of the climb. __Magic Wall__ (left photo) is a bit different than the usual Kalymnos style: thin technical climbing on a vertical wall, and only few overhanging sections. All routes at Magic Wall were bolted by Boris Girardin and Claude & Yves Remy in 2006. __Nirvana__ (at right) is a quality vertical or off-vertical technical grey wall that calls for expert footwork. All routes were bolted by Hannes Webhofer in 2014. __Indian’s Face__ is a newer sub-sector featuring mostly face and slab climbing on good, though sharp, grey rock. Routes are generally well-bolted, with most grades hovering around the 6a–6c range. They will improve with more traffic. Unless otherwise noted, all routes at Indian’s Face were bolted in 2018 by Gary Gibson, a well-known UK climber and equipper with more than 4,750 first ascents under his belt. Yes, that’s Gary on the moped. Sub-sector __Almodóvar__ (called “Upper Noúfaro” in the previous guidebook) is a wavy expanse of very compact red/grey rock with a grey slab on the right. Intense short routes on tufas and small pockets, plus some long, impressive wall climbs—with the occasional tufa—make for hardcore climbing on small holds and features, in addition to some walls. Alex Megos did the first ascent of all hard routes in 2013/14. __Noúfaro Main__ starts with a low-angle grey slab on the left and easy routes on pocketed rock. Then, to the right of the slab are mainly mid-grade vertical face climbs up to 25m long. At the right and far right, shown here, are several new routes on good, slightly overhanging orange rock starting at 6b. Look for some excellent new routes in the 6c+ to 8a range! Bonus: the path is quick and easy (10 minutes) and there is shade until 14:00.
CRAG STATISTICS
114
Routes
64799
meters climbed
2473
Zlags
6b+
average grade

J F M A M J J A S O N D

Family friendly
Very safe
Parking
Slabs
Vertical
Overhanging
Exposition
68 m.
55 min.

GALLERY