Fair Head

Fair Head is undoubtedly the best crag in Ireland. The long arc of dolerite extends for 3km and is home to over 400 routes. The longest routes are just over 100m long but there’s plenty of single-pitch routes as well. The rock is steep and there are very few routes below VS. And while there is plenty to keep the VS/HVS climber busy for a few days, to get the most out of the crag you need to be climbing in the Es. There is a massive number of classic routes, the majority feature some variety of well protected crack or corner climbing, however some of the harder routes venture onto the blank walls where protection may be a little sparse. The climbing is sustained, good jamming, laybacking, chimneying and bridging skills make life a little easier. The crag can be intimidating, especially in the more remote, darker areas in the middle but this just adds to the atmosphere of this unique cliff. The selection of routes in this chapter is only the tip of the iceberg and I recommend that anyone who is planning an extended visit purchases a copy of the 2014 Mountaineering Ireland guidebook. Bring as much gear as you can, hexes, double sets of cams and nuts. The rock is reasonably solid especially on the most popular routes but a helmet is still a good idea. As walking along the base of the crag can be slow and dangerous, an abseil rope, ideally 100m, is a very useful piece of equipment.