Roy - Mills Canyon

New Mexico, US

The Mills Canyon boulders described here are found at the mouth of the drainage that leads down into the main Canadian River canyon, accessed by either hiking or driving down Mills Canyon Road. This area was the first sector developed by climbers. This is a rough/overview guide to the best of the area, there are many more lower quality problems to be found out there (and probably some future classics too!). This area offers various shade and midday-afternoon sun options. Note that the state of the Mills Canyon Road (K-600) is constantly changing — sometimes it requires a high clearance vehicle to descend. Use your best judgement, and bear in mind that it is easy to park at the rim campground and hike down (15 minutes). The Mushroom Boulder has two dozen or so excellent problems on it V0-5. Roadside Attraction is a nice area for V0-6 with a mix of lowball and highball. The First Streambed meanwhile has harder stuff, V5-13 a bit spread out (and a scrambly streambed approach). The 45s have V3-V8 on a hillside plateau and are also less concentrated but a fun mixed bag. No topo. The Second Streambed has a small number of problems V2-V7, but one of the best V6s in Roy. The Bench is an awesome flat plateau — one of the best areas in Roy for V0-V4, and one of the best highball easy boulders in Roy (The Boulder of Disbelief).
CRAG STATISTICS
67
Routes
168
meters climbed
42
Zlags
6a+
average grade

J F M A M J J A S O N D

Family friendly
Safe
Parking
Slabs
Vertical
Overhanging
Roof
Exposition
1600 m.
10 min.

GALLERY