Milianos

Kalymnos, GR

Milianos is a very quiet sector on the way to Vathy village. It is situated in a peaceful mountain valley only 15 minutes from the Rina/Vathy fjord, with no houses in sight. Milianos Main (right page) features 16 routes from 6a–6c+, but the sun roasting the cliff all day is a bit of a dealbreaker. Milianos Cave, on the other hand, is much more popular thanks to a larger variety and number of routes, as well as afternoon shade. A quiet sector for wall and slab climbing with a mountain feel. Good option for afternoon climbing in the shade. __Busy__ 1/3 __Climbing__ Mostly steep and slabby on grey rock with a mountain feel. The vegetation can be obstructive, though, and the routes need more cleaning and traffic. __Conditions__ The main sector is hot and sunny, so it is best for cold-weather climbing. Milianos Cave has long hours of afternoon shade, which makes it a good option for hot summer days. __Shade (Exposure: S, SE, E)__ Until 11:00 (Main), after 13:30 (Milianos Cave). __Kids__ So-so. The approach and the cliffs are still not as clean as they should be, so extra care is needed. That said, there is some suitable terrain around the cliffs. __Milianos Cave__ is not really a cave, but an east-facing wall-and-slab combo with nearly 60 routes next to a large cave. What you will find here is a wide range of mostly technical wall and slab climbs. Unless otherwise noted, all routes were bolted by Gary Gibson between 2016–2019. Milianos Cave is a good option for hot summer afternoons; however, it is very vegetated, especially in the spring. Holds and footholds may be obstructed by plants, therefore gardening is a useful skill to have.
CRAG STATISTICS
75
Routes
21921
meters climbed
1045
Zlags
6b
average grade

J F M A M J J A S O N D

Family friendly
Very safe
Parking
Slabs
Vertical
Exposition
169 m.
20 min.

GALLERY