Palionisos Red Wall & Bay & Paradise Beach

Palionisos is a small hamlet with a handful of homes around a gorgeous narrow bay on the island’s northeast coast. A paved/tarmac road goes nearly all the way to the beach, with only the last few meters down to the water being a dirt road. The green-blue water, clean pebbled beach, and handful of good tavernas make this a perfect post-climbing spot. Three separate crags above Palionisos Beach. Plenty of sun and good vertical climbs from very easy to moderately hard. __Busy__ 1/3 __Climbing__ At five sunny crags on the south-facing cliffs above the bay, with the majority of routes in the middle grades. Two additional crags, Exo Syki and Kardama (not shown above), are located on the north-facing right side of the bay. Ilias Pillar, Gary’s, Exo Syki, and Kardama are rarely visited, so they are in the app only. __Conditions__ Warm and sunny, best for climbing on cloudy days or in winter. __Shade (Exposure: S)__ All sub-sectors except Exo Syki and Kardama are mostly in the sun, with only a few hours of morning shade. Check each sub-sector for exact conditions. _Red Wall_ Until 09:00 _Paradise Beach_ Until 11:30 _Palionisos Bay_ Until 10:00 __Kids__ Not bad. Most sub-sectors have some kid-friendly terrain. __Red Wall__ is a standalone red wall above the road as you drive downhill towards the fjord and beach of Palionisos. It features technical wall climbing with grades mostly between 6a–7a+ on mid-quality rock with sharp holds. A few routes are on better red rock. Approach (walking time: 12 mins). __Paradise Beach__ is a south-facing, relatively sharp small brown/grey wall with pleasant, technical mid-grade wall climbs and a really good view over Palionisos Bay. In recent years the equipper Gary Gibson added nearly 20 new lines to the sector, mostly in the 6a–6c range, adding some variety to the sector. Approach (walking time: 10 mins). __Palionisos Bay__ A south-facing red wall with big holes, a roof on the left, and quality grey slabs on the right—all with spectacular views of the water. Climbing is varied, with some good easy climbs (5a to 6a+) alongside a few well-featured harder routes (6b+ to 7a+). Approach (walking time: 10 mins).