Styx

Kalymnos, GR

Styx is an enormous rocky crescent directly above Emporios village. This is the quietest, most peaceful part of the island. Sector Styx includes four sub-sectors: Olive, Styx Main, François Guillot, and Emporios Portal. A remote area with stunning views and mid-grade climbing on grey walls. A bit sharp. __Busy__ 1/3 __Climbing__ On good but sharp grey walls. Several good mid-grade routes and tranquil surroundings. __Conditions__ Warm, sunny, and protected from the north wind. Best for climbing on cold days. __Shade (Exposure: S)__ Until 10:00 or 11:00 at most parts of the crag, except François Guillot and Emporios Portal, which stays in the shade until 12:30. __Kids__ The approach is not easy, but there are some suitable areas near the cliffs. __Sub-sector Olive__ sits above an abandoned goat pen with ancient olive trees. Most routes are to be found on the grey wall to the left of the cave; they are sharp but still worthwhile. In the cave itself are a couple of harder routes on narrow tufa pipes and blobs. The cliff is southeast-facing, therefore it is ideal for climbing on cold, sunny winter days. __Styx Main__ is a long stretch of pocketed grey wall or slightly overhanging red rock. There are some long, more demanding climbs in the middle. On the right, there is a short vertical wall with good mid-grade routes, plus a small cave with a handful of climbs on good, unusual red rock. __François Guillot__ is a sub-sector first developed by Claude and Yves Remy. It was named in honor of the mustachioed Frenchman who was the first to put up routes in the Verdon Gorge. Monsieur Guillot is a longtime Kalymnos regular. Recently, some worthwhile harder routes graded 7a+ to 7c+ were bolted here, mostly by Mike Reed. The new routes really help to round out the sector, which now offers good or really good climbing in a wide grade range. If this cliff was closer to Masouri, it would certainly be more popular. Climbing is technical, on sharp grey/red rock, vertical or slightly overhanging walls, and a nice corner and chimney. The cliff is protected from the wind and, like the rest of the sector, is perfect for climbing in winter or on cloudy days. __Emporios Portal__ features a distinctive elongated cave. Inside the cave, rock quality is poor—but on the outer walls it is excellent. Climbing is technical and routes follow unusual rock formations inside the cave and along its edge. At right, the short steep red wall is more athletic.
CRAG STATISTICS
86
Routes
15371
meters climbed
595
Zlags
6b+
average grade

J F M A M J J A S O N D

Family friendly
Very safe
Rain safe
Parking
Slabs
Vertical
Overhanging
Exposition
166 m.
25 min.

GALLERY