Doolin

Southern Ireland, IE

__Doolin__ The bouldering in Doolin is on limestone edges and boulders in a great setting beside the Atlantic looking across to the Aran Islands. There are two styles of problem in Doolin. One is on the vertical walls that resemble mini Ailladie routes in style. The other - and best - are the overhanging sections and more rounded boulders. The landings are flat but rocky and some of the problems are high so a pad is a good idea. Puddles can be a bit of a pain so a tarp is useful. __The Cave:__ further left of the topo - facing in - is a large cave. The walls surrounding it contain a few highball problems. __Kostya’s Wall:__ left of the first cluster of boulders is a long flat slightly overhanging wall. I haven’t described individual problems on it as they are all similar in style and grade (1-10, 5ish). __11-16:__ are on the large rectangular boulder. __16-26:__ The cluster of boulders is sometimes rearranged by the winter storms. So don’t worry if none of it makes any sense. __27-39:__ The vertical wall is known as Reardon Memorial Wall. It’s quite high but the problems tend to get easier towards the top. __40-41:__ The overhanging wall has two excellent problems. __42-49:__ The small cave to the right has some very nice steep climbing. __50-55:__ The following problems are to the right of the large slab which is the best descent to the lower tier. __56-58:__ The next three problems are on the low boulder on top of the cliff. This boulder can remain dry when everything else is soaked by spray. __Fireworks Boulder__: the boulder on the far right of the terrace has some good hard problems and link-ups. As the terrace slopes here the tide reaches the boulder quite early. Watch out for waves. There are two problems on the north end of the boulder, "Milkshake" 5C tackles the groove and to the right of this is "Quiet Place" 6A. __Linksups:__ - "The Valve" 6C+: start up "Al’s Variation" and finishes up "The Arete". - "Fireworks" 7B: start as for "Al’s Variation" and head right up and via the nice slopey edge to finish up "Black Corner". - "Night Follows Day" 7C: start as for "The Arete" and traverse right to finish up "Black Corner".- "Far Out" 6A: start as for "Outsider" and traverse low into "Killilagh" sit start and finish up. __Bones Bay__ A very smooth wall of limestone a short walk from Doolin village. There is potential for more problems further left on the cliff but the tide would need to be low. __Conditions__: the listed problems are climbable at any tide.
CRAG STATISTICS
73
Routes
112
meters climbed
28
Zlags
5c
average grade

J F M A M J J A S O N D

Very safe
Rain safe
Parking
Vertical
Overhanging
Exposition
4 m.
10 min.

GALLERY