Viks Kile

Göteborg, SE

Viks kile is a big sport climbing area with many good routes. The crag was for a long time the hardest one in the guide and even if it’s not the case anymore there are still plenty of difficult routes there. Viks kile consists of seven sectors: Balkongen, Verandan, Dungen, Dammen, Hyllan, Tysklandsklippan and Stugväggen. There is a nice beach on the other side of the bay (see map). You can also take a swim on the Dungen’s side of the bay (from rocks). These are two of the latest developed sectors in Viks kile. The routes here are entertaining and long (up to 35 m), vertical or slightly overhanging. All routes are bolted and equipped with lower-offs. Balkongen faces northwest, is open (i.e. it can be a bit windy here), dries pretty quick and is in the sun after about noon. Verandan faces the same direction but comes into sun a bit later. Climbing at Dungen is pumping, blocky and technical. Most routes are overhanging but some slabby ones have been developed at both ends of the crag. The routes are between 10 and 25 m long. All routes except one are bolted and all routes are equipped with lower-offs. Dungen faces north and northwest and is perfect during hot summer days. The right part of the crag comes in the sun first after about 3 pm. Some routes dry very slowly. A very steep crag. The routes are 10-25 m, bolted and most of them are equipped with lower-offs. On those that lack lower-offs, you must down climb the route anyway (to avoid a swim in the pond). Dammen faces west and is best during hot summer days. However, the crag is in the sun after about 3 pm and can get very hot then. Some routes seep a bit after rain. A little, west facing crag above the L-bend and the turning space. Tysklandsklippan is 12-16 m high and a bit friable and loose. The climbing here is steep and quite technical. All routes are bolted and equipped with lower-offs. There are a lot of ticks in the grass at the base of the crag. The crag is facing north and therefore suitable for summer climbing. Some routes get dry very slowly. The crag is in the sun after 5-6 pm. Stugväggen is a small crag up to 15 m high. All routes are bolted and have lower-offs. The crag is facing north.
CRAG STATISTICS
80
Routes
8423
meters climbed
444
Zlags
7a+
average grade

J F M A M J J A S O N D

Family friendly
Safe
Rain safe
Parking
Slabs
Vertical
Overhanging
Exposition
12 m.
5 min.

GALLERY