Dumbarton Rock

Scotland, GB

Scotland’s top urban venue and often referred to simply as ‘Dumby’, it is notoriously fickle in nature with narrow parameters for perfect conditions. The highball bouldering here can seem intimidating at first, but there are plenty of shorter, safer problems and good circuits. The faceted nature of the volcanic rock, plus the technique and precise athletic power required, wounds the pride of many a gung-ho boulderer. Sussing the secrets and positions for many of the problems, especially the modern link-ups and traverses, requires dedication, so it can all feel very frustrating at first. The rock is a compact, fine-grained basalt that shears into planes and crisp edges, making Dumby renowned for butch pressure moves and strong fingers. Boulderers often talk of holds feeling ‘glassy’, especially in a wind, but the best conditions seem to arrive after a cooling rain shower and a gentle breeze to dry the rock, drawing a little more graininess out of the holds, when locals talk of ‘sticky damp’. Shaded in the mornings, the sun hits the rocks in the afternoon. Summer is a bad time to visit as the black/orange rock sucks in heat and makes the harder problems nigh impossible. Thankfully there are also plenty of easier problems to enjoy.
CRAG STATISTICS
56
Routes
340
meters climbed
85
Zlags
6a+
average grade

J F M A M J J A S O N D

Safe
Parking
Slabs
Vertical
Roof
Exposition
25 m.
10 min.

GALLERY