Ghost Kitchen

Kalymnos, GR

Ghost Kitchen is a major crag. With a dominant, massive roofed dome full of stalactites growing outwards like the branches of a gnarly limestone tree, this is a hugely popular sector. On both sides of the roof are medium-difficulty walls, while the pleasant grey slabs on the lower right offer splendid technical and friction climbing. So far, only one multi-pitch route, rigani, uses the full height of the cliff. Mushroom stalactites and perfect balancy/friction slabs at the main crag. Slabs, athletic tufas, and late shade at two sub-sectors. __Busy__ 3/3 __Climbing__ The main sector is famous for slightly overhanging tufa-madness routes, immaculate vertical walls, and delicate slabs—all of exquisite quality and aesthetic value. There is still potential for new, harder lines, as well as challenging extensions to existing routes. Most recently (2021), the new sub-sector Aegean Islands was developed behind the main crag, adding 20 easy-to-mid-grade slabby and vertical routes. Two additional sub-sectors are on the right of the main crag: Atlantis (20 routes on compact slabs), and Utopia (the large, obvious tufa/stalactite cave with athletic, steep, well-bolted routes, and room for more). __Conditions__ Good all year round. Protected from the north wind. __Shade (Exposure: N, W)__ Until 13:30 (Main and Left, Atlantis) or until later on the right and Utopia (between 14:00–16:30, check each sub-sector for details. _Aegean Islands & Ghost Kitchen Left / Main _ Until 13:30 _Atlantis_ Until 13:30 _Utopia (cave)_ Until 16:30 _Utopia & Ghost Kitchen Right _ Until 14:00 __Kids__ Relatively good, with a few suitable areas. Sub-sector __Aegean Islands__ is located past (and behind) the left side of the main cliff. It offers slabby and vertical face climbing on grey/white rock. It is a new crag, so the routes and rock need some traffic to improve, and helmets are obligatory. Routes were bolted in 2021 by Jean-Nöel Bourgeois (1–12) and Hervé Rondeau (13–20). __Ghost Kitchen Left__ is a fully pocketed top-quality wall with some great technical climbs and grades mostly from 5c to 7a. __Ghost Kitchen Main__ is, of course, the main attraction here: a concave, gently overhanging cliff full of magic 3-D tufa mushrooms that lend themselves to thoroughly enjoyable full-body contact climbing. Grades range primarily between 6c–7a, with a handful of 7b and 7b+ routes for good measure. __Ghost Kitchen Right__ To the right of the tufas is an excellent compact wall. Routes on the left (5a–6b+) are technical, while on the right (6a–7a) they are mountain style. Bolting is good, though some longer routes feel a bit expo. Good footwork and smearing are prerequisites here. Extra bonus: the wall faces north, so it stays in the shade the longest. __Atlantis__ is a technical slab and wall with some sharp holds to the right of Ghost Kitchen. Some flakes and bushes need to be cleaned, and routes still stand to benefit from traffic. All routes were bolted in 2017 by Thierry Bionda and Christian Lemrich, unless otherwise noted. __Utopia__ is a shady new sub-sector with tufas and stalactites, and all the makings of a popular crag, particularly since many more routes are to be added (especially easier ones) and the location and view are stunning as usual. Climbing is athletic on overhanging, well-bolted routes. All routes were bolted by Simon Montomory in 2018 unless otherwise noted. _Attention_ Goats may cause loose rocks to fall. When climbing in the cave: As you strip the quickdraws on the way down, do NOT remove the 1st quickdraw. There is a risk of injury if you swing. Stay clipped into the rope, lower to the ground, then climb back up and remove the 1st quickdraw.
CRAG STATISTICS
130
Routes
185655
meters climbed
6738
Zlags
6b+
average grade

J F M A M J J A S O N D

Family friendly
Very safe
Parking
Slabs
Vertical
Overhanging
Exposition
55 m.
20 min.

GALLERY